mount mulanje part 2

After six hours and an expensive lunch we arrive in the small town of Mulanje, just before sun down. It is at the base of the mountain, and during the last hour of the drive the mountain towered above us..making us query our decision to climb it! Of interest we also passed many tea plantations and saw the ladies with baskets on their backs collecting it...was a really scenic drive! We met the 'man in the know' richard and discussed our options for the climb and accomodation etc before he found us a guide. We went to the local market and stocked up on tomatoes, onions, bread, rice - as little as possibly as it all had to be carried! The first night was spent in a small forest hut which was very sweet but due to a technical fault there was no electricity so we were in bed pretty early to get up at dawn the next day.

The walk started of gently, through a tall forest, with some kind of monkey/baboons above us. Within an hour we had made it to a beautiful waterfall (see pictures on facebook), which was so tempting to swim in but the thought of walking in wet clothes dissuaded us. By this time we were told we were 10% of the way - and we were all quite pleased - and thought it was going to be a nice walk up a hill! And then it started....the next 5 hours were straight up - one step back from rock climbing! The sun was beating down, we were sweating furiosly and my heart felt like it was going to explode! The only good thing were the absolutely gorgeus views..and i used taking pictures as an excuse to get my breath back every ten minutes or so! How we made it to the next hut i do not know, but one of the porters - paul, who was carrying all my things poor man, took it upon himself to make sure i reached the top. I remember reaching the top of this peak, looking down the hill and having the biggest smile on my face as i saw the hut! Paul and I ran all the way down the hill to the hut, where Mike and Amanda - two americans that were my walking companions were cheering me on!

The hut was at about 2200m, so it was very cold up there, and there was no electricity or running water. The place was being run by an elderly man called Benson - who had a huge toothless grin and spoke no english. It was his job to light fires and collect water..from a stream a good walk away. on his return we realised he was carrying the water in an over the shoulder fertiliser container!! Hopefully it had been sued enough times to be safe! We cooked on an open fire and slept under two huge woolly blankets, and it was just awesome! We had candles and played cards, and chatted with two other travellers up there.

the next day, the other two went to the top of the nearest peak, and i stayed at camp. there were two malawian girls hired by the forestry commission to run a cedar tree nursery - and cook for benson and the guides and porters who passed through. They took great pleasure in showing me the baby cedars - see photos, and then we cooked nsima together - they were surprised i knew how to do it. This involves mixing maize flower with boiling water and stirring/pounding it until it is thick. I am used to doing in a small pot on the cooker - this was a huge cauldron and they had to help me as i am not strong enough! I was actually able to speak more chichewa than they were english but we managed to have such a laugh together it was great.

Next a church group arrived which consisted of about 20 young malawians, boys and girls who had come in a variety of footwear - including black leather shoes! The girls were exhausted too which made me feel better! They had carried hundreds of potoatoes and a couple of chickens up and proceeded to cook chicken and chips whilst singing their church songs..was quite surreal!In the afternoon we went for a short walk to a nearby pool - which was close to the edge of the mountain, a big cliff face. Of course even in the cold temperature i was in like a shot and it made my day! the evening was spent in a similar fashion to the one before, and we rose early to set of down the hill once again. Mike, who had made the walk up the way dead easy, did not enjoy the way down, our knees were shaking and we were slipping and ripping on the huge rocks we were clambering down. I however found it a doddle compared to the upward journey!

the journey back, apart from a few near misses with dogs and goats, was uneventful and we all needed our beauty sleep! my muscles were aching for days reminding me what i put them through! It was one of the hardest physical things i have done, but i must say for those views and the hut experience..i think it was well worth it!.
xxx